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Showing posts from November, 2005

Viridian: First Impressions

Finally made it down to Viridian on Monday night for dinner, and the place seems to be settling in nicely. The white, minimalist dining room was nearly full with a crowd that included George Stephanopoulos and his wife, which made sense when I remembered reading years back that Rupperts was his favorite restaurant. (Siblings Sidra and Kenan Forman, now Viridian consulting chef and sommelier, respectively, came from Rupperts. Read more about the connection in Tom Sietsema's Weekly Dish .) The menu, unless you are ordering meat or cheese specifically, is all vegan, meaning no butter hidden in any preparations. (I have to admit this gave me pause, and for just a second I thought, "How dumb." Then I realized how many other places I could go to load up on butter and decided not to be so judgmental.) Our waitress also mentioned that the breads and desserts are all wheat-free, why I don't know, unless that many people are allergic or have decided wheat isn't healthy. (N...

Cap Lounge Needs Help

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I realize the title of this post is a little facetious, but hear me out. A Hill informant sent Metrocurean this photo of a sign posted on Capitol Lounge's door, advertising open positions at the bar. So regardless of exactly how close the Hill hangout is to reopening (the source says it still looks like there's a lot of work to be done), we know they're at least hiring. Earlier this month, another blogger sparked rumors of an imminent opening by posting a photo of a beer truck parked outside the lounge, which has been closed since an August fire. But fans of the bar should see this sign as a sign that things are moving along. (Yes, I did just write that sentence...is your brain really supposed to work after a weekend of eating?) (Photo by multi-media newsman Paul Kane.)

A Holiday Tale: Banana Brown Butter Bliss

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It was two years ago that I tasted what I still consider one of the best desserts I've ever had at Herbsaint, a delicious restaurant in New Orleans that managed to reopen shortly after Katrina. The banana brown butter tart, served at the restaurant with a drizzle of fleur de sel caramel sauce, isn't as strange or as banana-y as it sounds. Instead, the deep flavor of butter that has been browned permeates the sweetness of the bananas, creating a complex flavor that burned itself in my memory (and my family's). So you can imagine our delight when a friend produced a magazine tearsheet with the recipe, I think from Gourmet but I'm not positive. What a perfect alternative to the pumpkin and pecan pies that I can hardly bear to look at after the holidays. So mom and I whipped one up for the Thanksgiving feast, and with the exception of the dough needing to chill overnight, it wasn't all that difficult. You also have to be careful to brown the butter, not burn the butter...

More Closings

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It's been a bad month for D.C.'s upscale Caribbean cuisine offerings. Both Ginger Cove/ Ginger Reef and Ortanique have closed, the former for good, the latter indefinitely. The Washington Business Journal reports that restaurateurs Jimmie and Sharon Banks, owners of Ginger Cove and Ginger Reef, were evicted from the property and "still owe the city, landlord and utilities nearly $300,000 in connection with the restaurants, according to court records." The owners of Ortanique have left the door open for a return while they get their shit together (as quoted in the Business Journal story). Meanwhile, the Post reports that Washington landmark Blackie's House of Beef is being sold by the children of the late proprietor. ( Lulu's went in that deal, too, for which we should all shed a facetious tear.) Are these closings any great loss? Or just more free space for new faces to move in?

The Metrocurean Week in Review

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What people are talking about locally... ...We're really having a hard time getting off this CakeLove thing (see last week's week in review ). Warren Brown and his buttercream are featured as the cover story in this week's City Paper. Maybe next week will bring an even more riveting epicurean drama to capture our attention... ...Is the mini muffuletta the new mini burger? I had a trio of the shrunken New Orleans-inspired sandwiches for lunch today at Open City , which opened its doors this week and is already packed with thankful Woodley residents. The space is bright and inviting, and I'll be back soon to try the cucumber martini and to sample some teas from the restaurant's impressive collection (that'd be two different visits). And those muffulettas, though not winning points for authenticity, weren't half bad. The olive spread is spicy, which adds a nice twist... ...The Georgetown Ritz's Fahrenheit restaurant threw an impressive party Thursday nig...

Room With A View

Tabaq Bistro, as hoped, is now serving brunch on its spectacular roof. Check out the brunch menu here .

Signatures Deal Falls Through

Developing story... In a shocking twist to a story many in the food world have followed, Signatures has closed its doors. The group of investors that bought the restaurant backed out, throwing ownership back to embattled lobbyist Jack Abramoff, Roll Call newspaper reports today in a front page story (subscription required). Roll Call writer Tory Newmyer reports: " 'The money is gone,' said Mark Smith, a co-investor and president of the lobbying firm the Da Vinci Group. 'We made an investment into a business, and the business is not viable.' Smith said a clause in the contract allowed them to walk away at any time." Publicist Linda Roth confirmed the closure. The future of renowned chef Morou Ouattara, who last night served as the honorary chef at a March of Dimes auction and who is scheduled to appear on Iron Chef in January, is uncertain, but Metrocurean has no doubt the talented and respected chef can emerge unscathed, whether with yet another new set of o...

My Martini Is Better Than Yours

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Calling all wannabe or bona fide bartenders. If you think you've dreamed up the perfect winter martini (I'm talking to you, all you dirty martini lovers ), Palette wants to hear about it. Palette's Best Winter Martini contest kicks off today and runs through Nov. 30. Aspiring mixologists can submit wintry recipes (including ingredients, instructions, garnishes and your contact information) through Palette's Web site. Two winners will be announced Dec. 2 and will have their martinis (with your name incorporated) featured on Palette's martini list. Kind of like seeing your name in lights... (In the interest of full disclosure, I'll be serving as a judge. Bribes can be sent to 2456...just kidding.)

Open City Opens

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Metrocurean commenters are reporting that Open City , the much-anticipated coffee/diner/bar/ "third place" , opens today. Open City, reports On Tap , "will offer WiFi and feature a gourmet coffee bar, a full-service (cocktail) bar with beer on tap and some 12-or-so wines by-the-glass, and plenty of seats in the dining area to order upscale-ish diner food like Italian-style pizzas, eggs all day, sandwiches and salads." It's also a nonsmoking establishment. Open City, the third spot from the owner of Tryst and The Diner , is located at 2331 Calvert St. NW

Fire Claims Another Restaurant

Over on The Washington Oculus , Mike Grass is reporting that Fasika's Ethiopian Restaurant in Adams Morgan is out of commission after a fire. In other fire news, Fritz Hahn over at washingtonpost.com reports that rumors of Capitol Lounge , which was gutted by a fire back in May, reopening soon are false .

The Metrocurean Week in Review

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What people are talking about... Locally: Proving that people take their buttercream just as seriously as their politics in this city, the controversy I'm now calling Icing-gate '05 continues to swirl over whether Cake Love's cupcakes should be given time to warm up. Considering the comments found here , here and here , cupcakes seem to have the abililty to rouse surprisingly strong emotions. Now everyone take a deep breath... ... Rising from the ashes like Dumbledore's phoenix, Obelisk wins three stars from Tom Sietsema in his Sunday review . Several years back, the Italian restaurant was frequently touted as one of the city's top tables, but then it seemed to drop off the foodie radar. According to Tom, Obelisk is back, thanks in part to the return of chef Jerry Corso... ... OYA scores a set of new head chefs , who have given the menu some French and Asian touches... ... 14th Street's newest addition, Viridian, opens this weekend . Nationally: Arrivederci...

New Chefs Take the Helm at OYA

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What began as a friendship forged on a snow–boarding trip has made it all the way to the kitchen at OYA . James Stouffer and Jonathan Seningen were recently hired to share the top toque duties at OYA, following the departure of opening chef Kingsley John back in July. The pair met while snowboarding in Argentina this summer. Stouffer, who moved to D.C. this year after stints in Europe researching land for a winery and at Chateau Elan Winery and Resort in Georgia, and Seningen, who most recently worked under Chef Yannick Cam at Le Paradou , have been busy revamping the menu with French and Asian accents. The original "world cuisine" menu definitely had some highlights, so I'll be eager to check out what the new chefs have put together. The menu, which you can find on the Web site , includes blue marlin carpaccio, spicy lobster consommé with lobster dumpling, five spice duck, ahi tuna with yellow tomato risotto and pomegranate, and veal cheeks with turnips and cipollini oni...

Cake Loves Room Temperature

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Anyone who lives and loves food in this city has probably either heard the gripe or griped themselves about how Cake Love 's cupcakes aren't all their hyped up to be. I've had several friends ask me recently what I think and my reply is always, "Don't eat them straight from the fridge." Allow that rich buttercream to warm up a bit and it's as smooth as, well, butter. Straight from the fridge, you can remove the entire frosting top in one, what some might call lard-like, piece. Owner and newly minted Food Network star Warren Brown seems to have heard his fair share of griping too. In a letter on Tom Sietsema's dining chat today , he explains that his cakes need to be eaten at room temperature. He's even gone so far as to make cards instructing people to give their cake some time. "Under this renewed initiative to serve no cake before its time, we made palm cards in the spirit of a cautionary road sign. It features a person with a cake, a thermo...

Viridian Set to Open Any Day

Watch for the new restaurant from Perry's owner Saied Azali to open this weekend, permits permitting. Viridian , located at 1515 14th St. NW, will focus on simple and seasonal food with plenty of options for vegetarians and vegans, according to information posted on donrockwell.com . Viridian will be open for breakfast and lunch, in addition to dinner, which is great news for the neighborhood. Read more about the new spot in this previous Metrocurean post .

Signatures Ups the Renaming Ante

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As reported on Metrocurean in October, the new owners of Signatures are looking for a new name. Now, they're offering a $500 gift certificate and a chance to guest host the viewing party for Chef Morou's appearance on Food Network's Iron Chef America to the winner of the naming contest, reports publicist Linda Roth. You can submit your name suggestions by visiting the restaurant's Web site . The winner will be announced the first week of December. Even if you don't win, all entrants get invited to the Iron Chef viewing party. Metrocurean is still holding out hope that Morou will get to school some Bobby Flay butt. (Photo of Morou completing his Iron Chef entry by Michael Birchenall.)

D.C. Detour: Moravian Sugar Cakes

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Inspired by a quick trip to Winston-Salem, N.C. ... Remember when you were little and you'd make cookies from scratch with your mom and stick your grubby little hands in the batter at each and every opportunity? My favorite stage was always the beginning when the brown sugar and butter that starts so many cookies were blended together. I think that's part of the reason I love Moravian sugar cake, a signature specialty of my mom's hometown of Winston-Salem: It's essentially an excuse to eat butter and brown sugar. More bread than cake (the base is actually made with potatoes), the "cakes" are topped with a melted mixture of brown sugar, cinnamon and butter. You can toast them or zap them in the microwave for a few seconds to make them sticky and gooey. They're tasty at room temperature, too. Want to try the sugar cakes yourself? Dewey's Bakery in Winston ships them overnight in packs of three for $14.50 (not including shipping). I recently ordered a ba...

Chef News

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Palette's talented chef James Clark told me last week he's leaving to head the kitchen at DC Coast , news also reported today in the Post dining chat . After a rocky start with a chef whose cooking was inaccessible at best, Palette struggled to erase the memories of deconstructed feijoada and black olive ice cream, even after snagging Clark, whose Southern-accented menu was the antithesis of the opening menu. But the match of the sleek, art-inspired Palette and Clark's citified down-home cooking never quite made sense. DC Coast on the other hand, where Clark's wife has worked as pastry chef, seems like a perfect fit. I just hope Clark will have the opportunity to make his mark on DC Coast's menu, which like the menus at the group 's other three restaurants, rarely changes significantly. Metrocurean wishes Clark the best of luck in his new post, and I'll be listening for the announcement of Clark's replacement at Palette. Meanwhile, rumors were swirling ...

Pumpkin Digression

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I caught our pumpkin's soul leaving its body (with hot dog tongue) last night...

Po'Boy: It's What's for Lunch

Don't forget that today Acadiana hosts its second po'boy fundraiser, this time benefiting Slow Food International's Terra Madre Program , which will go to farmers directly, and The Louisiana Cultural Economy Foundation , recently established by Lt. Governor Mitch Landrieu. Here's the drill: Head over to Acadiana at Ninth and New York from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and grab a shrimp remoulade or roast beef po'boy (or both) for a $25 donation, all of which goes to the organizations. A word to the wise: Don't wait too long...the po'boys sold out before 2 p.m. last time, and though I'm sure they'll be more than ready this go-round, better to be safe than po'boy-less. Assembling the po'boys is a group of female chefs, including Ann Cashion (Cashion’s Eat Place and Johnny’s Half Shell), Gillian Clark (Colorado Kitchen), Jamie Leeds (Hank’s Oyster Bar) and Susan Wallace (Black Salt). The first fundraiser, held Sept. 12, raised $27,000 for hurricane r...